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43

These are jodhpurs, a style of pants developed primarily for horseback riding. Their intent was to allow flexibility in the hip and thigh while the more narrow lower portion worked well with riding boots and didn't get caught up in stirrups.


29

The First World War is often identified as a turning point in men's hair length. Prior to the war, both men and women commonly kept long hair, at least in western societies (and the Far East). This became problematic during the Great War, where armies encountered severe hygiene issues fighting in the trenches. Under the unsanitary conditions of the front, ...


20

It certainly meshes up with my memory of the way things were in the early 70's. But my memory may be exaggerated too. (I was anti-smoking way before it was cool.) It wasn't true that everyone smoked all the time, but it was certainly true that there were no real restrictions on locations smoking was allowed (short of near propane tanks). The first local ...


16

The Wikipedia article on the upturned collar is surprisingly informative and relevant. With origins predating the 20th century, the upturned or 'popped' collar was somewhat ubiquitous. Even President James Buchanan wore upturned collars: At this time, upturned collars were detachable, and were notorious for being quite uncomfortable and stiff. The ...


14

By the 1970s, smoking in the USA was starting to come down from its peak in the early 1960s. (Note that this is slightly deceptive in the early years of the 20th century, when cigarettes were relatively rare but cigars, snuff, chewing tobacco, and pipes were relatively common.) I don't watch Mad Men, so I'm not certain of the characters' ages, but I ...


13

Wigs became almost instantly fashionable after Louis XIII started wearing one in 1624 to hide his baldness, and were almost universal for European upper & middle class men by the beginning of the 18th century. Their main purpose was to mask receding or graying hair, and as a fashion item. One excellent source is the very detailed diary of Samuel Pepys ...


12

Switzerland, and the Germanies, 1500s and 1600s in the form of the Landsknecht who were given a legal dispensation from the sumptuary (clothing) laws to be so fabulous. There is a contemporary recreation community who have some colour pictures of recreated clothes draped on people, and a wide variety of pictures online, including some colour prints from ...


11

Be careful using movies as research for the commonality of smoking in the early 20th century. Film stars were paid by various elements of the tobacco industry to be seen smoking and paid to smoke in films. Here's a link to a reasonable summary of the scale of this advertising: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/health/7632963.stm


10

I passed the question to Cathy Raymond. Although she does not earn her living in either history or in textiles (due, I suspect, to her preference for a non-gruel based diet), I've read her research for a couple of years, and I've come to trust her opinion. One of the reasons I place faith in her opinion is that after answering the question, she offered the ...


10

Yes, most men smoked For men born in USA between 1900 and 1930, about 80+% of them had been smoking at some point; and during 1920-1950 ~70% of them were current smokers.[1] This matches other countries - at ww1, for example, all soldiers generally received also a tobacco ration with the expectation that most of them will need it. For UK statistics, see ...


8

It's obvious that having short or long hair is an identity sign for men and women respectively, more or less worldwide. No, it's not obvious, especially not in history. You may be mistaking a Western, Roman Catholic, modern behavior for something universal. The Romans were a little strange in their belief that men should shave and wear their hair ...


7

This kind of "is X rare" is clearly difficult, since it is usually hard to quantify things like this across space and time. @Histophile's own memories from the period and the fact that Göring's habit was singled out in a contemporary American account are suggestive that at least in US of time, this might have stood out. It doesn't tell us much about elites ...


7

First of all, I want to remark that people in the first half of 20-s century knew about health risks of smoking. I don't think any new discoveries were made in this area in the second half of the century. Second, all answers above address the situation in the US, so let me add some first hand experience from other countries (I grew up in former Soviet Union ...


6

Every so often in American history, we have a "girl power" movement. One appears to be happening right now, as we speak. That is, today's girls are graduating from college in greater numbers than boys, and getting better entry-level jobs. This appears to have no precedent in American or world history. This "girl power" movement is an offshoot of their ...


5

First of all, tt was the age's fashion. But the main purpose was to cover the unhygienic hair. The general hygiene was really on a low level in Europe from the beginning of the dark ages until the end of the 19th century when people started to realize that most of the diseases can be prevented by simple methods like taking bath, washing hands, and by ...


5

I've found that musketeers had large beards to store matches in, an that there is a strong link between small beards and civilization. The books Fighting Techniques of the Napoleonic Age, and, A Most Precocious Thing: Gun Trading and Native Warfare In The Early Contact Period (yes thats the title), both say that the long beards were used to store the long ...


5

A Russian fashion of that period is best documented in paintings of Боровиковский (active in 1790 - 1810). A Google query brings much more images.


5

Thomas Nashe's 1592 work Pierce Penilesse, His Supplication to the Divell implies a use of wigs to hide the indications of venereal disease: "Men and women that have gone under the South pole, must lay off their furde night-caps in spight of their teeth, and become yeomen of the vineger bottle: a close periwig hides al the sinnes of an olde ...


4

Being "developed" has nothing to do with how people dress (or don't). Indian society considered dress to be utalitarian rather than a means to hide the body because of some religious diktats. IMO that's highly developed, far more so than the primitive idea of letting your actions be decided by priests... Also, as a result they had no body taboos like are so ...


3

One possible source is Traditional Korean Costume Given that the authors are listed by their affiliation with Ewha's Women's University, I'm willing to bet that they have additional academic papers availble, and are probably willing to correspond on the topic and suggest other resources. I searched for the first author's name on the Ewha University site ...


3

It's hard to say why fashion changes, but ruffs was originally a French fashion that spread to the various countries of Europe. They may have started as a small drawstring collars in early 1500s on the chemise to protect the upper body garment from soiling. Portrait paintings from the era gives a good illustration of the evolving fashion, from small ...


3

This question is quite old, but it's a subject dear to my heart, so I thought I'd provide my own take for you and anyone who happens to end up here. The most important thing to remember is that there was no "flapper movement". The fashion of the 1920s grew organically out of the fashion of the 1910s, no emphatic rebellion against past dress necessary. The ...


3

The thing that initially popularlized the popped collar in the 80's, along with many other "Preppy" fashions (eg: the sweater worn tied around the neck or waist) was The Official Preppy Handbook, which came out in 1980. I never owned a copy, but I was "that age" when it came out, so lots of people brought them to school and I thumbed through it. (I was ...


3

South India has had a vast number of kingdoms , each having its own variety and having being influenced differently from other kingdoms , in culture , custorms , religion , art , language and of course the attire of all classes of society. So it's not wise to put them in one general basket called south india. Since it is not possible to quantitatively ...


3

Wearers of the Zoot suit were not really "hip" (in the usual sense of the word). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoot_suit They were mainly Latinos and African-Americans, who wore them as a protest against oppression, rather than as a cultural statement, although some elements of jazz, slang, and "lifestyle" issues accompanied them. With the onset of World ...


3

Normally a sword is worn from a sash or belt worn across the shoulder, known as a baldric. The scabbard is attached to the belt by a contraption of strings and leather known as a frog. In some cases scabbards were made with eyes. In this case, only a cord is needed to hang it from the belt, or it can be hung directly on a shoulder strap. In some cases, ...


3

Just a thought but before World War One men generally had longer hair and beards. However, short hair on men has often been enforced as a mean of control, in police, military and other forces that require obedience and discipline. Slaves and defeated armies were often required to shave their heads. There may be some sort of connection there. As the men in ...


2

There was a sling worn either under or over the jacket, with the scabbard of the sword attached to the low end. swords have been worn like that for millenia. Why would they change that in the last years of the use of swords? besides, it looks classy.


2

The reason you find wildly varied depictions of Faust is because there are quite a few versions of the Faustian legend, Goethe's being fairly recent. Here's a brief and incomplete list: Historia von D. Johann Fausten (1587), by Johann Spies, The Tragical History of the Life and Death of Doctor Faustus (1604), by Christopher Marlowe, Das Faustbuch Des ...



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